is the latest climbing hot spot in
Batu Caves, housing a vast number of routes ranging from the easy 5B's to one of
West Malaysia 's hardest climbs, an 8A route.
"mosquito" in Malay, although its numbers have reduced significantly ever since
a major clean-up effort of the area among the climbers.
The routes in
Nyamuk offer a wide diversity of limestone rock and a good number of them are
20+ metres long. So, a 60-metre rope is definitely necessary when you climb at
Nyamuk. There are also plenty of bouldering routes, so bring along your
grades at Nyamuk are significantly harder than those at Damai's, but it is very
much on par with the ratings of international standards.
developed almost exclusively by Blocx (
www.blocx.com) with the help of
some local climbers.
For the latest
updates on the rock climbing scene at Nyamuk, visit the Nyamuk section at
Damai is an
excellent spot for beginners and casual weekenders alike to try out rock
climbing. It is the most accessible climbing location around, and even has car
parks and shelters built right in front of the wall itself.
The routes at Damai are by far the most beginner-friendly - with a lot of jugs and features on
the rocks. There are over 30 routes and a couple of multi-pitches, with grades
starting from the easiest of 5C's. The most
obvious feature of Damai is a huge cave about 20 metres up, with a large boulder
"stuck" inside it.
offers some very technical climbs on smooth, longish routes for climbers who
want some challenge in their rock climbing. Route difficulty starts from 6A and
above. Some of routes, especially the second pitches, can be climbed on trad.
The area is accessible on foot from Damai.
Red Rocks is a small area to the east of
and is accessible on foot through the houses.
The crag is
instantly recognizable from the color of its rock. The difficulty of the routes
range from 5C to 7B. Most of the routes present a wide array of features
involving stalagtites, stalagmites, overhangs and hidden pockets.
Etnobotani Gua Musang, Kelantan
Gua Musang is a
small town situated along the border of Kelantan, and is about 4 hour's drive
from KL. Along the way, you would probably notice limestone formations
everywhere; an obvious proof to the rock climbing potential that this area
Etnobotani is about 5 minute's drive away from Gua Musang town, and the area
houses various facilities for camping, team-building, recreational activities,
etc. You can get decent accommodation within the park (chalets or dormitories)
or at the hotels in the town of Gua Musang.
area is a walking distance from the campsites. There are around 30 rock climbing
routes ranging from 5b-7a.
offers a wide variety of climbing on both sport and trad. It is situated near
the Templer's Park golf course.
several climbing areas in Bukit Takun, and all of them require some bit of
hiking. Bukit Takun is still very much one of Malaysia's best spots for trad
climbing, with some multi-pitch routes. Most of the area is nicely sheltered
from the sun.
plenty of insect repellants and mosquito coils as the blood-sucking creatures
can make life very uncomfortable!
Jesselton Park, Penang
Penang is an
island located to the north of Peninsula Malaysia, and houses very interesting
routes on granite rocks.
with the climbing at Batu Cave's featured limestones will be in for a shock at
the significant lack of options while climbing - try looking for those tiny,
The routes are
located at Jesselton Park, just next to the water tank (see route map below):
1. I Hope
You Get Fat, 6b, 7m, 3 bolts
Psychosis, 6b+, 7m, 3 bolts
3. You, Me &
A Dog Named Blue,
6a, 7m, 3 bolts
Note: Route 1,2,3 share the same anchor.
4. The Cream
of Extreme, 6b+, 9m, 4 bolts
with Love, 6b, 9m, 4 bolts
Tooth, 6b, 12m, 5 bolts
6a, 12m, 7 bolts
Note: Routes 6 & 7 share the same anchor.
8. No Man's
Land, 7a+, 17m, 7 bolts
Gua Kelam, Perlis
Perlis is a
small state located in the northern tip of Peninsula Malaysia. It houses Gua
Kelam (Dark Cave), a 370-metre long limestone cave which is a tourist attraction
of the state. The surrounding area has been developed into a recreational park
complete with toilets & showers, wooden tables & benches, huts and food stalls.
enterprising climbers have taken the initiative to establish climbing routes at
the crags, and as a result, there are now over 30 bolted routes in 6 climbing
However, due to
a lack of climbing activity in the area, most of the rocks are infested with
creepy-crawlies, so expect to brush of cobwebs, spiders, ants, insects, hives,
etc as you climb along