ROCK CLIMBING

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Outdoor

Batu Caves

Nyamuk

is the latest climbing hot spot in Batu Caves, housing a vast number of routes ranging from the easy 5B's to one of West Malaysia 's hardest climbs, an 8A route.

Nyamuk means "mosquito" in Malay, although its numbers have reduced significantly ever since a major clean-up effort of the area among the climbers.

The routes in Nyamuk offer a wide diversity of limestone rock and a good number of them are 20+ metres long. So, a 60-metre rope is definitely necessary when you climb at Nyamuk. There are also plenty of bouldering routes, so bring along your crashpads!

The grades at Nyamuk are significantly harder than those at Damai's, but it is very much on par with the ratings of international standards.

Nyamuk was developed almost exclusively by Blocx ( www.blocx.com) with the help of some local climbers.

Damai
Damai is an excellent spot for beginners and casual weekenders alike to try out rock climbing. It is the most accessible climbing location around, and even has car parks and shelters built right in front of the wall itself. The routes at Damai are by far the most beginner-friendly - with a lot of jugs and features on the rocks. There are over 30 routes and a couple of multi-pitches, with grades starting from the easiest of 5C's. The most obvious feature of Damai is a huge cave about 20 metres up, with a large boulder "stuck" inside it.

White Wall offers some very technical climbs on smooth, longish routes for climbers who want some challenge in their rock climbing. Route difficulty starts from 6A and above. Some of routes, especially the second pitches, can be climbed on trad. The area is accessible on foot from Damai.

Red Rocks

Red Rocks is a small area to the east of Damai and is accessible on foot through the houses.

The crag is instantly recognizable from the color of its rock. The difficulty of the routes range from 5C to 7B. Most of the routes present a wide array of features involving stalagtites, stalagmites, overhangs and hidden pockets.

Taman Etnobotani Gua Musang, Kelantan

Gua Musang is a small town situated along the border of Kelantan, and is about 4 hour's drive from KL. Along the way, you would probably notice limestone formations everywhere; an obvious proof to the rock climbing potential that this area harbours!

Taman Etnobotani is about 5 minute's drive away from Gua Musang town, and the area houses various facilities for camping, team-building, recreational activities, etc. You can get decent accommodation within the park (chalets or dormitories) or at the hotels in the town of Gua Musang.

The climbing area is a walking distance from the campsites. There are around 30 rock climbing routes ranging from 5b-7a.

Bukit Takun, Selangor

Bukit Takun offers a wide variety of climbing on both sport and trad. It is situated near the Templer's Park golf course.

There are several climbing areas in Bukit Takun, and all of them require some bit of hiking. Bukit Takun is still very much one of Malaysia's best spots for trad climbing, with some multi-pitch routes. Most of the area is nicely sheltered from the sun.

Bring along plenty of insect repellants and mosquito coils as the blood-sucking creatures can make life very uncomfortable!

Jesselton Park, Penang

Penang is an island located to the north of Peninsula Malaysia, and houses very interesting routes on granite rocks.

Those familiar with the climbing at Batu Cave's featured limestones will be in for a shock at the significant lack of options while climbing - try looking for those tiny, hidden holds!

The routes are located at Jesselton Park, just next to the water tank (see route map below):

1. I Hope You Get Fat, 6b, 7m, 3 bolts

2. Sister Psychosis, 6b+, 7m, 3 bolts

3. You, Me & A Dog Named Blue, 6a, 7m, 3 bolts
Note: Route 1,2,3 share the same anchor.

4. The Cream of Extreme, 6b+, 9m, 4 bolts

5. From London with Love, 6b, 9m, 4 bolts

6. The Tooth, 6b, 12m, 5 bolts

7. Dead Monkey, 6a, 12m, 7 bolts
Note: Routes 6 & 7 share the same anchor.

8. No Man's Land, 7a+, 17m, 7 bolts

Gua Kelam, Perlis

Perlis is a small state located in the northern tip of Peninsula Malaysia. It houses Gua Kelam (Dark Cave), a 370-metre long limestone cave which is a tourist attraction of the state. The surrounding area has been developed into a recreational park complete with toilets & showers, wooden tables & benches, huts and food stalls.

Some enterprising climbers have taken the initiative to establish climbing routes at the crags, and as a result, there are now over 30 bolted routes in 6 climbing areas.

However, due to a lack of climbing activity in the area, most of the rocks are infested with creepy-crawlies, so expect to brush of cobwebs, spiders, ants, insects, hives, etc as you climb along

Content published with permission from Nomad Adventure Sdn Bhd (www.nomadadventure.com)

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